TRAVEL GUIDE: Португалия – Лисабон ( I част )

Здравейте! Най-после дойде време за първия травъл гайд в блога. В него ще ви разкажа за слънчева Португалия и по-точно за Лисабон и заобикалящите го региони. Посетихме го миналата пролет и беше любов от пръв поглед. Красивите цветни сгради, романтичната музика, архитектурата, храната, хората, музайките… Португалия със сигурност е една от страните, които задължително трябва да посетите…

Как да стигнем до Лисабон?

Директни полети от София до Лисабон предлагат няколко компании, включително и нискобюджетната WizzAir. Ние решихме да си направим малка екскурзия преди голямата такава и резервирахме полет от Атина с Aegean, която не е нискобюджетна компания но пък е една от най-добрите в Европа и една от малкото компании, които предлагат топла храна в самолета. Ако решите да пътувате с тях, със сигурност ще получите доста по-висок клас обслужване имайки се в предвид, че ще летите поне 5 часа. Летището в Лисабон е спретнато и добре обозначено с табели. Лесно е да се ориентирате и излизайки ще откриете лесен достъп до такита или машина за билети, за автобуса. Летището се намира в близост до града, така че транспортът до вашия хотел или апартамент едва ли ще стува повече от 20 евро.

Придвижване из града

В световен мащаб Португалия е малка държава, но за сметка на това столицата Лисабон е сравнително голяма, като повечето европейски столици. Смея да кажа, че португалците са свършили чудесна работа що се отнася до придвижването. Най-бързият и лесен начин за придвижване из града е с метрото, което има прекрасно развита мрежа към всички части на града. Картата на метрото е семпла и лесна за разчитане, влаковете са нови и добре поддържани. Препоръчвам ви да закупите „Карта Лисабон“, когато пристигнете. Тази карта ви дава неограничен достъп до градския транспорт ( метро или автобус ) за 24 – 72 часа в зависимост от пакета, който сте избрали. Ние се възползвахме от пакет 72 часа, който не само ни даде безплатен достъп до градския транспорт по всяко време на деня но и безплатен вход до някой забележителности, както и отстъпка от входа за други такива. Лисабон е туристически град и почти през цялата година има туристи. Входовете за забележителностите са с километрични опашки, и една такава карта ви дава „ВИП“ права (т.е. минавате с предимство), което спестява доста време. Друг начин за придвижване са автобусите, които обаче спират доста често и съответно придвижването е доста по-бавно. Разбира се не бива да пропускате и трамваите, които са символът на Лисабон. Малки, спретнати и шарени. Невероятна атракция и удобен начин за придвижване и разглеждане на града. Трябва обаче да ви предупредя, че е изключително трудно да намерите свободни места за трамваите и имайки в предвид, че те са тесни, се гответе да се блъскате с двойно повече туристи, отколкото всъщност е капацитетът му. И все пак ако не успеете да се качите на такъв, не пропускайте да се снимате до тях, защото атракцията е голяма а спомените вечни…За придвижване до различните крайни региони на Лисабон, препоръчвам влаковете. Гарата в столицата е със смайваща архитектура а гледката от там е невероятна. Влаковете са точни, бързи, чисти. Ако сте за по-дълго време там, със сигурност ще искате да посетите някои от крайните региони и да се насладите на спиращите дъха забележителности, за които ще ви разкажа във втората част на статията!

Настаняване и престой

Когато започнете да разглеждате за места, за настаняване ще откриете, че в Лисабон хотелите са предимно малки старинни сгради, реновирани по невероятен начин и превърнати в бутикови хотелчета. Ние предпочетохме да наемем апартамент чрез Airbnb , за което не съжаляваме. Приложението ви дава избор за апартаменти във всички части на Лисабон, цените са по изгодни и да не говорим, колко красив и уютен е дизайнът на всеки от тях. Ние избрахме малък апартамент в региона „Аламеда“, който е на 5 минути с метро от центъра. Веднъж пристигнали, ще разберете, че настаняването в хотел е напълно излишно, тъй като единственото време, което ще прекарвате в него е, за да спите. За да разгледате Лисабон ще са ви необходими поне 4 пълни дни, в които ще сте навън от сутрин до вечер. Единственото удобство на хотелите е , че предлагат закуска, но веднъж пристигнали в столицата ще откриете разнообразие от малки закусвални, които предлагат невероятна храна и атмосфера и със сигурност няма да останете в хотела за закуска нито един път от престоя си. Чувството да си в апартамент заобиколен не от персонал и туристи а от жители на Лисабон, някак си дава усещането за завършеност… Сякаш можете да почувствате града и да станете част от него…

Както вече споменах, Лисабон е пълен с туристи почти през цялата година, така че едва ли ще е от голямо значение в кой сезон ще го посетите, може би единствено зимата е по-спокойна но пък тогава няма да можете да се насладите на пълната красота на Португалия. Ние избрахме да пътуваме през Април, което се оказа добро решение. Времето беше променливо и валеше всеки ден, но въздухът беше свеж и температурите все още не бяха толкова високи. Ако сте като нас и нямате проблем с дъжда, препоръчвам този сезон. Ние бяхме там за 6 пълни дни и мога да кажа, че НЕ бяха достатъчни, за да разгледаме всички основни забележителности. Първите 4 дни прекарахме в Лисабон, останалите два разпределихме за Синтра и заобикалящите го забележителности.. За съжаление не успяхме да посетим никой от другите региони с внушителни забележителности като Кашкайш, Ещорил, Кабо да Рока и др… Грешка, която възнамеряваме да поправим в най-скоро време. 😊

Храни и напитки

Може би не знаете, но Португалия е наречена „Раят на храната“ и то напълно основателно! Хората, които ме познават могат да потвърдят, че след Лисабон се прибрах значително понаедряла.. но какво да се прави ..  Разхождайки се из града, навсякъде ще забележите малки сладкарници и пекарни. Срещат се толкова често, колкото в България се срещат баничарници и магазини за алкохол и цигари. Португалците имат ясно изразена склонност към десертите и само хората, посетили тази слънчева страна ще разберат, какво имам в предвид. Независимо всички невероятни вкуснотии, които надничат наоколо, има един сладкиш, който със своята слава и висота надминава всички останали. Това е специална наслада, която задължително трябва да опитате, ако посетите Лисабон, а именно pastéis de nata . Според легендата рецептата за любимия десерт на Португалия датира преди повече от 300 години. Родното мястото на този сладкиш е Белем. Тогава районът е градска енория, а сега е квартал на Лисабон, намирайки се на запад от центъра на столицата. Рецептата за pastéis de nata е  създадена от монаси в манастира Жеронимош, който днес е основна туристическа атракция. Манастирът е обект на световното културно наследство на ЮНЕСКО. Първата пекарна, която започва да произвежда това изкушение е Pastéis de Belém. Тя се намира в непосредствена близост до кулата Белем и пред нея винаги се вият километрични опашки от туристи. При посещението ни на Белем, не успяхме да опитаме тази пекарна, тъй като опашката беше повече от километър и щяхме да загубим целия ден в чакане. За сметка на това ние открихме друго местенце, което беше и нашето любимо и посещавахме всекидневно, а именно Fabrica da Nata. Това е малка пекарна намираща се на централната улица на Лисабон – Rua Augusta в близост до площад Rossio и площад Praça do Comércio. Мястото е с невероятна атмосфера и типично в португалски стил, и най-невероятното е, че всъщност майстор-пекарите приготвят този невероятен сладкиш пред очите ви. Няма нужда да ви обяснявам колко от тези изядох по време на престоя ни там…..

Ако пък не сте фенове на сладкото и предпочитате нещо солено, тогава бих ви посъветвала задължително да опитате сандвичите с Presunto de Barrancos ( вид шунка ) и Queijo de Azeitão ( овче сирене ) . Обещавам ви, че веднъж опитали, няма да можете да спрете да ги ядете. Приготвят ги на един малък дървен щанд на площад Росио, и за да бъде щастието ви пълно, в съседния щанд ще откриете изобилие от различни видове Сангрия, която признавам, португалците знаят как да приготвят. Друго нещо, с което страната е известна, е огромното разнообразие от риба и морски дарове, което е напълно разбираемо предвид местоположението и мекия климат на страната. Една от най-популярните храни са сардините, приготвени по всевъзможни начини. Интересен сувенир са и консервите сардини с картинки от различни части на Португалия. Ще откриете специални магазини, предлагащи хиляди видове консерви в различни цветове и с различни вкусове. Не пропускайте да опитате и bacalhau- тип риба треска, която е и националната храна на Португалия. Според кулинарните легенди, може да се приготви по над 400 различни начина в зависимост, в коя част на страната сте. На мен лично ми беше много вкусна. Ако сте любители на рибата, горещо ви препоръчвам да я опитате.

Няма как да посетите Португалия и да не опитате Порто. Това е португалско ликьорно вино с тъмно златист цвят, което се произвежда в североизточна Португалия, в долината на река Дуро. Ако бях сомелиер, може би щях да успея да ви опиша вкуса му, но не съм.. така че нека просто го наречем „Божествена напитка“. Можете да го откриете във всеки ресторант или пекарна в Лисабон. Ако сте любители на виното (като мен), не бива да пропускате магазинчето Loja do Vinho, което се намира в Синтра. Там ще откриете невероятна селекция от вина и сирена, които да опитате. При посещението ни там, опитахме Порто от 1985 година, което си струваше всеки цент.

Храната и виното в Португалия са толкова невероятни, че си заслужава да я посетите само, за да ги опитате….

В следващата статия ще ви разкажа за забележителностите, които успяхме да посетим по време на престоя ни в Португалия….

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